About 1 month after the failed attempt at climbing Sunset Crack. I got an opportunity to attempt this climb again. I felt the stars were going to align for send-age because:
1)It had not rained in a week,
2)I had stalked other people’s facebook accounts to find the correct topo
3) I had read John Long’s anchor building book.
4) We were only going as a party of 2
And with much better preparation, we did manage the find the way with minimal problems topping out in 2.5 hours. In fact, the hardest part of the climb was the hike in and out because it was 34c. (luckily at the top of Kowloon peak there is a nice breeze and shade)
Here below, I have edited the topo from HongKongclimbing.com since the topo was written in 1956.
9 – Sunset Crack – S 3a, 4a, 4a, 4b, 4a
One of the classic routes on Kowloon Peak.
Pitch 1 (25 m) 3a – Climb easily through the slabs and bugling walls beneath the Yellow Wall to a prominent corner.
Pitch 2 (23 m) 4a – Follow the corner system until forced rightwards onto a narrow ledge. Climb the slab above towards a belay at
a tree in the corner. the corner on the left next to the chimney. (The tree he was referring to is probably dead; the other tree that remains now goes to Longfellows climb)
Pitch 3 (25 m) 4a – Climb the crack line to the left of the belay, past an overhang, until it is possible to move left into a small grassy gully. (a very small grassy gully; don’t continue up all the way along the crack line)
Pitch 4 (18 m) 4b – Make an exposed finger traverse leftwards along the crack. Climb up from the large scoop on the edge of the wall to the bottom of the slabs above. (keep going straight to the slabs!)
Pitch 5 (32 m) 4a – Climb the centre of the two slabs above with increasing difficulty. When the slabs steepen up, by the second break, step left onto the arete and follow this to the top of the crag. (belay before you reach the very top, right before the loose rock held by a tree)
F.A. Corporal Christie (1956)