Rock climbing in Qingyuan – A guide!

My old “rock climbing in Qingyuan” blog posted is my most popular page, its also very outdated. So here is a guide. I can’t say I know everything about Qingyuan, but I have probably been there 10x so I know enough.

 

Getting There: 4-5h

  • The easiest way is to hire a van + driver from China border. The more people you have the cheaper it is. A 6 seater van + driver that picks you up in Shenzhen on Friday evening and drops you off Sunday night should cost about 500-700rmb each. The good thing about this is the driver is at your disposal. Ask any HK climbers for a driver number.
  • Another way is to take the high speed rail to Qingyuan , then get a local driver or didi driver to YingXi. This is great if you can’t join a group.
  • There’s also busses , etc but I have never tried and seems to be slow.

Getting Around:

  • If you don’t have a private driver, you can rent a bike or scooter at the bouldering cafe.

Sleeping

  • Some people will tell you to stay at the farmhouse. But really that’s not the best option anymore since they changed owners, is full of tourists, wifi is unreliable and toilets suck.
  • Ask the locals or driver to recommend the newest hotel. There are plenty. I like the one with the ping pong table, but I can’t remember the name.

Eating

  • The farmhouse used to be good but it’s not anymore since they changed owners. Also its overpriced.
  • There are better restaurants (you need car access). Ask the locals. The breakfast place with the home made “cheong fun” is still a favorite.
  • Qingyuan is famous for two things. Chicken and bean curd. If you aren’t Chinese, you will hate the chicken because its free range and bony as hell. Order the “hand shredded chicken”, there are no bones. The Bean curd is very good.

Climbing

  • Big Temple crag (first 2 bolts of each route are chopped off so bring clip stick)
  • Guanyin crag
  • The crags near Big Temple
  • Squirrel crag. – hard routes, rock fall because new crag but beautiful.
  • Some other crags I haven’t been to or access is now impossible

Nightlife

  • The bouldering cafe right outside the road to the farmhouse. It has craft beer. It’s called Mental Rock, the owner is BoBo. I think she is only open on the weekends.

Tip

  • If you are planning a long weekend trip that coincides with a chinese public holiday. Don’t leave on a Friday at 7pm, Saturday at 9am unless you want to be stuck in traffic for 6 hours.

Lastly , since I wrote this guide. If you know me, you can give me a beer, or invite me to your climbing trip 🙂

mcOverland

Hong Kong. Travel. Climb. In that order.

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