Kuala Lumpur. A city similar to Bangkok, but better. There’s BBQ Stingray , climbing nearby, the hotels are cheap, people are friendly and they have great indoor gyms. If there was a con, it would be: the beer is expensive, it rains too much and the crags aren’t rainproof but you can’t really have everything.
The last time we went to Kuala Lumpur to climb was in May 2015. Before Grab, and during the wet season. This time, we had really perfect weather.
The first day we went to Nyamuk Crag in Batu Caves, the same crag we went to in 2015 but got rained out of. Access is super easy now with Grab and the approach was a whole 1 min from the road. It was a Friday and we were the only ones. As Batu Caves is infamous for a million mosquitoes (Nyamuk in Malay means mosquito), we came well prepared. We had 3 boxes of mosquito coils, and I had 3 different kinds of bug sprays with varying levels of Deet, I actually only ended up getting bitten once. Now that we climb a bit harder, I can say the routes here are really fun although the bolting is more heady than in HK. All the routes are 30m long which is something I love. There were about 30 routes in total and the ones we tried were all quite enjoyable.
The next day, we went to Bukit Takun, which is about a 25-30 min from KL. Bukit Takun is 200m tall with lots of multi-pitches and sports routes. Access was also very straightforward with Grab although we missed the trail to the more popular sector since it was very overgrown and walked all the way up to the top sector. Unfortunately, there is no topo for Bukit Takun other than general crag directions and route names , but we managed to find Lower Slopes which is a granite slab crag. And then we later found the Jenga crag (the most popular one), where we met the route developer there. This was great because he recommended us some great routes and we didn’t have to guess which route we were on. (He explained the reasoning behind the lack of Topo was because he didn’t want Bukit Takunt to have the same fate as Crazy Horse. ) The climbing at Bukit was also excellent although a bit more chossy.
The last day, we had a early flight. As the crags are only shaded in the afternoon, and quite far from the airport, we went to the original Camp5 instead where I had some fun on their long lead walls.We only had a too short session there and off we went to the airport.
A fun short little weekend trip.
Batu Caves Damai wall is very kid friendly but the routes are low grades. The rest of the crags at Batu have way too many mosquito and Bukit Takun approach is too steep / crag is still too new and chossy to recommend.